Got lots done over the past few days. Sunday I started working on contouring the sides, and decided to start on the top surface because it seemed like it would be easier then starting on the back because its mostly flat compared to the back.
First, to my eye it looked like the neck block wasn't perfectly aligned to the tail block. I measured and it was out of square slightly (which I never noticed before) so I made up a foam spreader to keep these two blocks square.
Next, I started contouring the sides and kerfing. Overall, I think I did a decent job putting the kerfing on close to the level of the sides, but there were a couple spots that were a bit on the high side, so I used a chisel to shave off those high spots.
Next, I started contouring the sides and kerfing. Overall, I think I did a decent job putting the kerfing on close to the level of the sides, but there were a couple spots that were a bit on the high side, so I used a chisel to shave off those high spots.
After reading from a few sources on the internet, I decided on a method to contour the top. Between the tail block and the waist, the top surface of the sides is flat. Then from the waist to the neck the sides are angled down about 1 or 1.5 degrees which gives the proper neck alignment. I made a sanding bar from an aluminum level with 100 grit sandpaper two way taped to it. Then I put pencil marks on the top surface of the sides, kerfing, and tail/neck blocks. Alternating between straight and circular motions, I first sanded flat from the tail block to the waist, then from the waist to the neck block.
Once I was finished contouring the sides, I placed the top onto the sides, and put 1/4" dowels through the locating holes in the top and into the mating holes in the neck block. This lined the top up centered and in the proper position at the neck block. Then I ensured the top was sitting centered with the tail block.
From the side view, you can see where the X-braces will pass through the sides. These braces have to be thinned, and then slotted into the sides. These braces have to be thinned enough that the binding covers these slots later in the assembly process.
All of the tone bars or other braces are supposed to end at the kerfing and are not slotted into the sides.
All of the tone bars or other braces are supposed to end at the kerfing and are not slotted into the sides.
I flipped the sides over and marked each of the braces so that I could see where they intersected the kerfing. Then I took the top, and using a chisel I thinned all of the braces.
Slots had to be carefully cut out in the sides to fit the X-braces. Using an Exacto knife I carefully made these slots and kept removing material where necessary until the X-braces fit nicely.
This pic shows an example of one of the X-braces nicely fitted through the sides. Later, these braces will be trimmed level with the sides, then binding will cover these slots.
This pic shows an example of one of the X-braces nicely fitted through the sides. Later, these braces will be trimmed level with the sides, then binding will cover these slots.
This picture shows the top fitting to the sides. All of the X-braces fit into slots in the sides, and it doesn't take much effort to get the top to fit tightly to the sides without any gaps. From what I've read, the less stress you build into an instrument, the better it will sound. So the fact that the top seems to fit well without forcing it together should be a good thing.
I'm excited and nervous at the same time. I'm excited because it seems like I've done a good job and the guitar is taking shape. But I'm nervous at the same time because while I think I'm doing a good job, what if I messed something up without knowing it and sacrificed some structural strength?!?! Did I thin the X-braces too much? Or does it matter (after all the top seems slightly on the heavy side). Maybe I'm just worrying too much! haha Next I'll work on contouring the sides for the back!